
here you will be given information about the world of costume making, professions and precautions before you dive into the world of my project!
JOB ROLES in costume
Costume designer — plan and supervise the creation of the costumes and outfits worn by characters; responsible for the overall look of the clothes and costumes in theatre, film or television productions
Costume maker — responsible for translating the costume designer's ideas and drawings into real clothes
Costume cutter — member of the costume team that supervises the construction of costumes that are made from patterns. she/he is also responsible for creating the patterns from the costume designers' sketches / designs.
Dresser — is a theatrical stagehand who is involved with maintaining costume quality at each performance
Milliner — mark out and cut patterns to create designs for hats. they then cut out the various components and assemble the hat. this may involve twisting, rolling, folding, reinforcing, sewing, steaming and pressing various components.
Costume standby — is among the beginner positions in the costume department, primarily assisting with handling wardrobe fittings and supervising the continuity of the characters' clothing from scene to scene.
Costume supervisor — work with the costume designer to ensure costumes or outfits are of the standard they require, ready and prepared in time for fittings, rehearsals, recordings or live shows.
Costume breakdown artist — works closely with the designer to ensure costumes look genuine and realistic. they are responsible for ageing or manipulating a costume to make it look authentic for a film/TV production using various techniques.
Wardrobe assistant — help to make, find and look after clothes and costumes used in theatre, film and TV productions.
Running wardrobe — responsible for the maintenance of all theatre costume once a production is in rep. they need to ensure that the costumes are washed and ironed after every performance, as well as mend any tears or other damage.
Hard and Soft skills
Hard skills
CD knowledge
Design skills
Working with hand tools and machineery
Soft skills
Communication
Creativity
Team work
Imagination
Interrelations and hierarchy
Workroom
Designer
Supervisor
Cutter
Maker
Assistant
Running Wardrobe
Head
Assistant
Maintenance
Dresser
On Set
Designer
Supervisor
Principal standby
Standby
Trainee
Dailies
PPE and Hazards in costume
•What does PPE stand for?
•Why do we need it?
•What does it include?
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is specialized clothing or equipment worn by an employee for protection against infectious materials
PPE is essentially a range items you can wear that will protect you against various hazardous conditions. PPE is important because it prepares you for health and safety risks and gives you extra protection in the event of an accident or against the elements.
Hazards in Costume room
Scissors, unpicker, rotary cutter, scalpel, sewing machines, pins, needles, wire
Iron, glue gun, streamer, dyer vat
Heavy boxes, clothing rails, mannequins, fabrics
Glue, dye
Costume room safety advice
•Tie long Hair Up
•Tuck in lanyard
•Keep fingers away from needle while sewing
•Pay attention while operating the machine
•Take foot off the pedal when not sewing
•No pins while using the overlocker
•Always cut away from yourself
•Carry mannequins with 2 hands
•Wear gloves and goggles when using fabric dye

There are many substances that are used in the costume production and they can harm your health! it is important to know how they are indicated on product packaging so as not to endanger your health
Hazardous Substances
•Fabric Dye
•Glue
•Spray paints
•Fabric paint
•Iron cleaner
•Fabric disinfectant
•Laundry detergent
•Spray Starch

What is a costume design?
A costume design should convey a few things
• Character
• Gender
• Age
• Profession
• Economic background
• Place in society
• What makes them unique?
The Design Process
No matter what item you are producing the design process remains largely the same
It's important to follow all the points of the design process so your work will be well done


Considerations before starting a design connect
• Client – Are they trustworthy? Good to work with?
• Budget – Will the money cover what needs to be bought?
• Fee – Will this cover your design/making time?
• Time scale – Is there enough time before deadline?
• Work load – Can you accommodate this with current work?
• Performance type – Can you accommodate this with current work?
• Performance location – Special adaptations to costume makes?
• Costume changes – Is it on location?
• Continuity – Is there time to have full costume changes? Do you need multiple costumes?
• Audience – Adults, children?
• Cast – Young cast? Religion? Additional needs?
DESIGN SKETCHES
Things to include on your costume design sheets
• Body outline
• Clothing outline
• Production info
• Annotations
• Fabric samples
What they should be
• Accurate in body shape
• Markings to show texture
• Full colour
• Full body
• Consider how it will be constructed
What they don’t need to be!
• Beautiful works of art
• Sketched freehand

IDEAL DESIGN
• Visually exciting
• Artistic
• Technicaldrawing
• Colourpalate
• Annotations
• Labelled correctly
FAIRY THEME: ACROBATIC SHOW IN THE CITY CENTRE
Research – Mood board – Design – Measurements – Pattern – Materials – Make
What is a croquis?
In fashion, the term refers to a quick sketch of a figure (typically nine heads tall as this is the accepted proportions for fashion illustration) with a loose drawing of the clothes that are being designed. Often a large number of croquis drawings will be created for one finished look, which is fully drawn and finished.

TECHNICAL DRAWING
Technical/Flat drawings are a sketch outlining the shape, form, and sewing techniques used in a garment.
They are used when garments are complicated or have to be very specific.
Not essential for most costume designs, but they very informational.
They are required in the fashion industry, when making batches of clothing.
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Measuring and sourcing
Without taking body measurements, the fabric material can run out of supply if the tailor uses it too much. And more material is required to fix small dresses or suits. So when body measurements are taken accurately, the tailor will know the exact amount of material to be used.
Everyone has a different body shape and therefore the proportions of the body are different. A person can be tall, short, slender, or overweight. It is important to take this into account when measuring.
What types of clothing are included in costume?

clothes
underwear
shoes
hats
gloves
jewelry





Example of size chart

Number and letter sizes
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In the retail sector we give a number or letter to garments.
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This helps customers pick the right size.
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As we all might have noticed sizes can vary between shops.
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Companies like to have there own set of measurements and there are no laws to make companies standardize them.
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This can happen because of the fit / cut of the garment.
Measuring etiqueite
• Be polite and attentive
• Make the artist feel at ease
• Ask if they would like to be measured in private
• Always measure from the side
• Avoid touching intimate areas
• Ask the artist to pass the measuring tape around the body
• Ask the artist to bend down if you can't reach
Protocols
• Measuring takes two people
• Ask the artist to remove bulky clothing
• Artist must be wearing correct shoes
• Tie a ribbon around the waist to mark it
How to measure the body



Pattern Cutting
What is a pattern?
a pattern is the template for parts of a garment that when assembled become a full garment.
Your pattern should be thought of like an architectural drawing of the body.
Types of pattern
Commercial pattern
Basic block pattern
Digital download pattern
Cad pattern
Seam allowance in patterns
Professional costume patterns do not have seam allowance included.
We like to draw on our seam lines with chalk in order to get an accurate line.
Costumes tend to have much bigger seam allowances than fashion patterns.



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What are the main ways we source a costume?
make
making the costume by hands
hire
there're lots of options to hire clothes, it's fast and can be cheaper
borrow
if you know that someone has similar costume or a piece of clothing you need you can borrow it
buy
the easiest way to source a costume, but obviously you need more money
Tools used in pattern cutting
• Pattern paper
• Tracing paper
• Mechanical pencil
• Pattern master
• Set square
• French curves
• Metre rule
• Measuring tape
• Tracing wheel
• Carbon paper
Labelling your pattern
All patterns should have this information
Garment type
Pattern piece
Size
Seam allowance = NO SA or SA included
How many pieces to cut
The Artists name
The Cutters name
About fabric
Before we cut out any fabrics we need to understand fabric terminology and how fabrics are made.
There are three main types of fabrics
WOVEN + KNITTED + NON WOVEN

Pattern pieces drafted for woven fabrics will have a line with an arrow at both ends called the grainline.
Selvage edge - a "self-finished" edge of a piece of fabric which keeps it from unravelling and fraying.
Bias grain - The true bias is 45 degree
angle to the selvage
Warp - Lengthwise yarns
Weft - Crosswise yarns

Which way to cut





HAND TOOLS
WHAT TOOLS DO WE USE IN COSTUME?

HAND SEWING
Running stitch - the straight or running stitch is the basic stitch in hand-sewing and embroidery, on which all other forms of sewing are based. The stitch is worked by passing the needle in and out of the fabric at a regular distance.
Back stitch - its variants stem stitch, outline stitch and split stitch are a class of embroidery and sewing stitches in which individual stitches are made backward to the general direction of sewing. In embroidery, these stitches form lines and are most often used to outline shapes and to add fine detail to an embroidered picture. It is also used to embroider lettering. In hand sewing, it is a utility stitch which strongly and permanently attaches two pieces of fabric. The small stitches done back-and-forth makes the back stitch the strongest stitch among the basic stitches. Hence it can be used to sew strong seams by hand, without a sewing machine.
Blanket stitch - It is called Blanket Stitch as traditionally, it is used to stitch the edges of blankets. It not only gives the blanket edges a nice look but also secures them. This stitch is now used in many other crafting projects, making it one of the most sought after stitches.
Slip stitch - The slip stitch, sometimes referred to as a ladder stitch, is an effective easy way to close up seams that require stuffing, or discreet seams that cannot be sewn with a sewing machine. Sewing a slip stitch by hand continues the look of a seam without seeing visible stitches.
Herringbone - used in embroidery, knitting and crochet. It is so named as it resembles the bones extending from the spine of a herring fish. In knitting, it is a stitch that creates a fabric pattern closely resembling a herringbone pattern, or herringbone cloth.
Whip stitch - is a simple sewing stitch that is used in crocheting, knitting and sewing, and in which the needle is passed in and out of the fabric in a series of stitches that circle an edge of the fabric. In hand sewing, this stitch can be used to create a seam but can also be used for joining two felt pieces together. Whip stitching creates a nice edge and prevents the fabric from unraveling.
Stab stitch - the needle is first driven through the fabric from the right side, then pushed back up through the material from the wrong side.
Swing tack - is a thread chain made by hand-crocheting a chain stitch. Its used to hold two or more layers loosely together. If you have a pair of lined pants or a lined skirt, a swing tack will be used to fix the lining to a certain point of the garment.
Tacking stitch - is to sew quick, temporary stitches that will later be removed. Tacking is used for a variety of reasons, such as holding a seam in place until it is sewn properly, or transferring pattern markings onto the garment. Tacking is typically sewn using a specialised tacking thread, which may snap easily in order for it to be easily removed from the garment when necessary.
Embroidery stitch - a stitch made with thread and a threaded sewing needle through fabric or leather.
Button hole stitch - is a technique used in embroidery and for embroidered lace. It is very similar to the blanket stitch. It is called buttonhole stitch when the stitches are packed closely together and blanket stitch when they are more evenly spaced out.
Button shank - A shank is a device for providing a small amount of space in between a garment and a button. Shanks are necessary to provide space for fabric to sit in between the button and the garment when the garment is buttoned. Shanks also allow a garment to hang and drape nicely.
Pressing
Pressing refers to flattening the seams on your work.
Ironing is simply just smoothing out wrinkles.
Pressing seams help the stitches sink into the fabrics.
This makes your stitching more durable.
Steaming
Steaming is for smoothing out wrinkles in garments.
It can be used in addition to ironing, but isn't a replacement for the iron and ironing board.
The heat from the steam can also kill bacteria. It's a safe non chemical way to sanitise fabrics.
Applique
This technique is a quick and easy way to add surface decoration to fabrics.
It requires the use of
Fabric
Bondaweb
A hot iron
Hand sewing
Cut out your initial and apply it to your sewing sampler.
Sewing Machines
TYPES OF MACHINES USED IN COSTUME
Sewing machine
Overlocker
Cover stitcher
Button hole machine
Embroidery Machine
Bar tack machine
Blind stitch machine
Chain stitch machine
Knitting machine
DOMESTIC VS INDUSTRIAL
DOMESTIC
Cheap
Easy to transport
Compact
Easy to fix
'Multi purpose
Slow stitch speed
Easy to control
Breaks easily
INDUSTRIAL
Big
Noisy
Powerful
Fast
Hard to transport
One use only
Hard to control
Reliable